starkers, YES you CAN use a hub/switch at the end of a long lead(max 90 METRES)(total cable length for cat5/6/7 is 100 metres by specification), and it is even possible to cascade hubs/switches  if you run out of ports.

I have a shorter version of what you are wanting to do in use in my workshop.

harpo

Thanks mate, I wasn't too sure about connecting multiple devices after reading about IP addresses for everything and crossed signals, etc.... and the further I read into it the more confused I got. 

Why things can't be explained in laymans terms I dunno... like not everybody's a freaking expert, are they?

I only have a 10 metre ethernet lead running upstairs to my entertainment area and devices in question, so that's well under the 90 - 100 metre limit.  It looks like, then, this Netgear network switch will do the job just fine.

Thing is, I do have wi-fi networking available, and I use that for tablets and laptops, etc, but the TV, Bluray player and PVR each require a wired network connection.  The media player is wireless capable but there can be some data loss/disruption when streaming content to it wirelessly, and the wired switch solves all my network problems at once.  I don't know that I need more than 8 ports, but it's good to know that I can cascade hubs if/when necessary

Anyhow, thanks again for the info and prompt response.

as far as ip addresses go, there is two ways to set them up

1 (EASY way) let modem/server use Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol (dhcp) administered in modem/server in a (usually) single page with a address range

2 (HARD way) MANUALLY configure EACH of the devices with a static(manually configured) address with the server address also specified, and if you add another device you MUST give the new device an address that is NOT used, but in the SAME address range as the modem/server and other devices.

also it is a good idea for windows computers that you want to be able to share printers/files between to (each computer has a different name (like IP addresses)) but the same work(home)group name (same as ip address ranges)

harpo

Yeah, I think I'll let DHCP do it the easy way... hard looks too complicated after pulling yet another all-nighter.

The two main PCs will be the only ones sharing a printer, and that is already set up to go in the home network

Again, thanks for the help... though I'm going for a bit of snooze before putting it to good use.

Sounds like you got a rockin' set up starkers. If I ever get to Oz I wanna come play at your house.

starkers is only using 10/100, I have been using 10/100/1000 for several years which helps with the file transfers between comps, and also will NOT need to be upgraded for the nbn (which ever century it happens in( I live in one of the many areas that are NOT even listed for the next three years schedule so have to make do with mere 8mbit adsl))

harpo

It came to me in an epiphany that I've got these networking bits n' pieces laying around gathering dust and I ought to make use of them or turf 'em out.  Well I'm not one for tossing stuff if there's a half a chance it could be useful, like it'd be a long time gone, so I figured connecting up my media devices would be a good move and help keep me off the streets for a while.

Well if you ever get here there'll be a bed for you.  It'll be in the psych ward but not to worry, I sneak out all the time.... only go back for the pills and shock therapy.

They're coming to take me away ho ho, he he, ha ha....

Hehe, Jafo, you didn't think anybody 'd recognise you, did you? 

Yup, that's you at 1.09, bush bashing in your pink undies.... can just make out the JAFO tatt on the shoulder.

Anyhow, now I've had a giggle, back to what I was going to ask the wise folk around these here parts...

Okay, so I have a spare Netgear DG834G Router and I want to know if I could use it as another access point/uplink by connecting the in port to an out port on my net connected router... and if so, are there any settings I'd need to make?

I tried searching on the net again but most of what I found were forums and a lot of conflicting answers to the same or similar questions.  Some people said DCHP had to be disabled, others disagreed, and various ones said no settings were necessary if it was being used just as a straight through hub/distribution point to other devices, that those would be assigned IP addresses by the router via DCHP.

If anyone could answer this I'd be most grateful.  Being I have an upstairs downstairs setup, and the 8 port hub is upstairs, I need a couple of extra outlets downstairs so I can get on the net and activate rigs I've just built, etc.

TIA.

I had an older router I had to manually set the IPs to match the 1st router but I think any modern router is basically plug and play so to say. I would just keep the computer/s you do surfing and DLing the most the shortest route from the modem and router, run the extension to the TVs and such from there.

Do you know how to log in to your routers to access their settings pages? 
I would just do a test plugin , modem ---> routerA ---> routerB ---> computerB, if you got internet you should be able to plug everything else in . If not, maybe we need to set your IP ranges, some brands of router use different ones by default, log into routerB with compterB ,If your router is 192.168.0.0 and its range is 192.168.0.1 to 192.168.0.100 I might try routerA 192.168.0.1 to 192.168.0.10 and routerB 192.168.0.11 to 192.168.0.20 or something like that.

Confused yet 

Or you can pack it all up, send it to Canada and I will be glad to connect it all for you.   

starkers,

If you have a spare 'router' and you want to use the four ports on it as a simple 'pass-through' switch (instead of going and buying just a switch) you'll need to disable 'network address translation' (what the router does by default).  Some routers have an option to 'disable NAT', others have an option to set the router to 'Bridge mode'.  Either of those options does the same thing.  It stops the router from performing network address translation (which you want OFF if all you care about is extending/passing through a connection to an existing router.

In any case, if your router doesn't allow for 'Bridge mode' or "NAT off' etc. then you really should just get a regular 5-port switch because having a second router on your network (cascading-NAT or double-NAT) is something of an advanced setup and can present some challenges if you're not familiar with how things work.

When you disable NAT on a router or set it to 'bridge mode' (same thing) you are essentially (in layman's terms) telling the router to stop doing it's main job.  That is what you need in your situation since all you want that 'router' to do is to be a switch for you.  That is how you solve your issue, whether or not your router let's you do that (some older SOHO routers don't) is another thing. 

Here is how I would do things.

1.  Log in to the older router and turn NAT off (ie. enable Bridge Mode)

2.  Connect the WAN port on the now 'bridge mode' router to one of the four existing ports on your main router

3.  connect your other devices to one of the 4 other ports (with your repurposed router set to 'bridge mode' they will grab an IP address from your other router)

If you do end up needing a switch, I've had very good luck with these: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-GREENnet-Standard-1000Mbps/dp/B001QUA6RA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=Y21RYO2GYYC9&coliid=I2VFJP0Z1EWKKP

Using two at work and one at home right now. All working without a hiccup for quite a while now. Which is more than I can say for my D-Link gamers lounge router at home, grrrr, have to restart that thing like once a week, or else it just starts dropping wireless connections, wired do stay up running fine though.

the dgl 4500?  yeah they have issues with the WISH function as I understand it....using mine now cause it seems like it performs better than my asus rt-n56u...

...huh?  either I'm very confused or the n56u is another piece of awesome hardware with terrible firmware

stupid networking.  I hope the bufferbloat projects have some major impact in the next few years.

starkers, the old Netgear DG834G Router/modem will be a problem due to the built-in modem tending to block the use as a bridge/router for a network.

personally I would keep it a spare for when the current modem dies.

harpo

16 or 24 port switches are not that expensive.  Would run one ethernet cable from your router up to your entertainment room, connect it to the 16-24 port switch (usually to port 1) and connect each of your ethernet devices to remaining available ports.  Let your router do the IP addresses (DHCP) and you should be good to go.  Here's an example.